At the end of May, the newly opened Magmode Hall in Sanlitun, Beijing has a diverse identity. It is a fashion integration store and it is also a clothing incubator.
The so-called incubation is not entirely from scratch. At present, the first batch of hatching works in Mingtang are three men's wear brands that already have a certain foundation: Masha Ma, an independent designer who was known to the public for the TV show "The New Clothes of the Goddess", followed the two women's wear lines. Magmode teamed up with the new men's line Mattitude, the other two are the new designer Sean by Sean, a young designer who has been in London and Paris, and the personal brand Arc, who has worked at Hermès, Xu Jiazheng. The goal of incubation is that these designer brands can open stores independently, and the famous brand can continue to incubate new brands.
One of the founders of Mingtang is Cai Chongda. He is more familiar with media and best-selling authors. He has been the editor of the "Weekly Pictorial" news edition, and also served as the director of the "GQ" Chinese edition. His most famous one. The work may be the 30,000-character feature "Judgement" recorded in the "Pharmacy Xinxin Case".
But in the clothing industry, Cai Chongda is not a newbie. He was born in Jinjiang, Fujian Province. This clothing-based city has produced seven traditional costume brands such as wolves and 男 brand menswear. Three years ago, Cai Chongda created a men's clothing brand “single farmer†with a bit of literary fan. According to the official website information of the single farmer, there are currently 58 stores in 28 cities.
"The last three are already in the Red Sea, but the crustal movement of clothing has already begun. Everyone is not satisfied with the existing clothing consumption. This market is very big." Cai Chongda explained his motivation.
However, if you want to be a clothing brand incubator, you probably need to figure out two things: how to make a clothing brand and how to be an incubator.
Clothing is a traditional industry, and its industrial chain is long and trivial. The starting position is the designer's hand, and the end is the customer's body. Among them, there are fabric manufacturers, manufacturers, wholesalers, distributors, plus some brands to consider the show release schedule, media and ordering matters. This complicated process is just as big as thinking about it.
Among them, big brands and independent designer brands are still different. The big brands in China's Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Guangdong, Shenzhen, and Fujian provinces, from seven wolves to Masfil, have an annual income of over one billion. In addition to advertising, they have established a lot of channels for occupation. As consulting firm Roland Berger said, La Chapelle's advertising expenditure is zero, because it is enough to feel the presence of the store alone.
In contrast, the work of independent designer brands is much smaller and beautiful. They rely on the launch of exhibitions and videos to convey brand information, and social media spending and marketing expenses are indispensable in daily expenses. Products and shows everywhere reveal the designer's personal preferences, brand names and designer names often come together, clothing prices, although thousands, but the annual income is far less than the former.
This is the story of “We are in an industry, but not in one dimension,†said Wang Zushi, an independent designer who has run the same-named fashion brand Vega Zaishi Wang for eight years. Wang said that the big brand is like the UNIQLO of Sanlitun. The customers who come in every day have substantial demand for clothes, but the designer brand is more like the style cabin hidden in the hutong, and does not want to accept everyone. However, precisely because there is no large-scale production, independent designers do not have bargaining power when communicating with intermediates such as fabrics, which is the basis for high sales unit prices and difficult to expand customers.
The latter is to hatch the latter, the designer brand.
Take Mattitude's example. Its fabric is collected by the team of Matang Ma. The factory is named by the famous church. The channel is also extended by the famous church. After the test of the famous church, in March next year, Mattitude plans to set up an independent store. In order to test the market and reduce the cost of trial and error, the famous method is to release 20 models at the earliest, the effect is good, will be added to 30, 80 or even 120, more and more close to a brand if the number of SKUs when doing independent stores.
It sounds like the game project that accompanied the brand to pass customs clearance.
“China’s former clothing industry is a brand that people in the traditional supply chain are doing, but the people who come from the supply chain do not necessarily respect the designer itself. He does not think of clothing as a cultural product, but as a commodity. Even if the brand is placed in a good channel, you feel that there is no content.†Cai Chongda told the interface reporter, “The teams that have entered the industry from other places and have mastered supply chain, channel, fabric and operational capabilities are still relatively few in China. So there is culture, and business power is very weak."
In the United States and Europe, there are many garment incubators and different funding backgrounds. When it comes to plans to support New York fashion talent, the most famous are the New York Fashion Association CFDA, Vogue Foundation and the academic incubator BF+DA, while London is a famous emerging designer treasure, from the British Fashion Association to Man, Incubation projects such as Fashion East are endless.
The models of these incubators are basically the same: wooing capital, finding studios, and providing business coaching, which allows students who have not yet left the school to have the opportunity to board the fashion week's runway, have a fixed studio, and compete in the trade fair. Accepted the baptism of the market in advance.
At the beginning of 2016, the incubator of China's Internet industry has been ruined. A number of incubators in Shenzhen and Beijing have closed down due to serious homogenization and financial breaks. In the fashion industry, the number of independent designers in China has increased significantly around 2009, and the demand for clothing brand incubators seems to have emerged.
In the past, most of the clothing brand incubations were fashion groups that already had multi-brand management experience. The French LVMH is a typical example. After the new designer wins the LVMH fashion award, he can enter the group's incubation project. The ready-made business experience and the authority of the industry can help the newcomer.
This method is also popular in the clothing group in Guangdong, China. Inman, who is fighting for IPO, started from Amoy brand, and later acquired clothing brands such as “Living in the Left†and “First Languageâ€, and already has mature supply chain systems and online and offline channels. In May 2015, Yinmei Group, where Inman was located, launched the Designer Entrepreneurship Support Program, which has already incubated original design brands such as PASS and SAMYAMA through small-scale investment and partnership companies. Inman claims that the size of a single-brand transaction is nearly 100 million yuan.
In the interview, Yingman’s Huimei Group CEO Fang Jianhua said that the project was “investing huge sums of moneyâ€, with a specific amount of 220 million yuan.
“Our strength is that many years of development have allowed us to have the brand experience and to replicate and extend according to the brand positioning. Huimei Group has mature platform, resources and experience to help the brand grow.†Fang Jianhua Said, "But the situation of each company is different, some are good at entities, some are good at supply chain, and resource integration is not a one-off event. We have seen too many ups and downs, and we use our shortcomings to fight with others. That is destined to lose."
The institution that is also the role of the buyer's shop and the incubator is not the first. However, in the past seven years, some of the once ambitious incubators have eventually become a simple shop, and the brand's products have been sold for sale, and they have not participated in any production process of the brand.
“I can tell you that 99% of China’s buyers are losing money. Why? Because the sales model is not profitable, they can’t make a purchasing advantage with a small amount.†Invested in the IDG Capital Investment Manager Wang Xin explained the interface.
For those buyers who have a small sales volume, they can't bring scale advantage to the designer brand. On the other hand, it is very difficult for the buyer who lacks cash flow to survive. The paradox becomes an incubator to take care of others' business. .
Mingtang also wants to solve the problem of self-adaptation, and the hatching brand is too young to open the market. Therefore, in the famous hall of Sanlitun, except for 60% of the retail space left for the hatching brand, about 40% of the remaining space is reserved for the introduction of mature brands. With the previous contacts in GQ, Cai Chongda has won more than 20 foreign brands that have doubts about the Chinese market and have been influential internationally, such as Discovered, the first Japanese brand to enter China.
Huachuang Capital is another investor in the famous hall. They believe that the famous brand portfolio in front of them can effectively reduce risks. “(Famous Hall) is still mainly a buyer's shop, and his own new brand has not yet been introduced. The combination of cooperation and incubation of the brand is a very platformized process, which is a relatively less risky approach. Because of a collection In the store, he has introduced mature brands to support, and on the basis of ensuring a certain flow, his own designer brand can gradually gradually expand the balance between SKU and the design style and market demand. Wu Haiyan, a managing partner of Chuang Capital, told the interface reporter.
However, even if the problem of self-adaptation is solved, it does not mean that the designer can always be willing to be accepted, and the needs of the incubator and each designer are not always consistent.
Even garment hatchers made by mature foreign institutions face such problems. With an initial capital of $2 million, the BF+DA in New York has helped 35 companies generate $20 million in annual revenue. Debera Johnson, executive director of BF+DA, told Fashionista: "Our members are growing at an unimaginable rate and moving out of their own doors. When people no longer attend party meetings, it means that these young people don't You need the guidance of the hatchery center to be alone."
Yan Jiayue, the former managing director of Jiuhe Capital, believes that “incubators are more of a matter of capitalâ€. Emerging incubators are playing capital. It is like a kite line in their hands. The brand wings are hard to fly.
The shareholding may be able to establish a bond with the brand, which is what the famous church is currently thinking of. At present, the three brands in the store are involved in the investment, the share of the shares depends on the current status of the brand and the designer's existing business capabilities. Cai Chongda said: "The establishment of a joint venture with the brand naturally integrates into production, and the famous church is very heavy, starting from the stage of commodity planning."
But perhaps it is foreseeing future contradictions, and many designers refuse to be hatched. At the beginning of the establishment of Vega Zaishi Wang, there was also an incubator who had found Wang Shishi, but she refused because "it feels like turning into a small product line under a big brand. All resources and strength must rely on others. That is to raise A designer must be. Young designers must understand whether they want to be circled and be treated as a lamb. When you find that something is wrong, the brand will suffer losses. There is no shortage of international brands to withdraw. Case."
Of course, if you have decided to join the incubator, it is also important to pick a good one. “The incubator must first have a very experienced success story. If you start from scratch, the designer himself is not the same.†This is Wang’s suggestion, “Further, unless you can really find a multi-directional team, one then People with charisma can gather talents from all directions. They can manage and manage them. They even know the products better than the designers. They should be considered after promotion, promotion and after-sales."
Man'S Cotton Shirt,Man'S Short Sleeve Shirt,Men'S Shirt,Long Sleeve Man'S Shirt
SHAOXING OCEAN CO., LTD , https://www.sxgarments.com